Shoe upper and method of finishing the edges thereof



May 4 1926. 1,583,028 A. J. THOMAS wSHOE UPPER AND METHOD OF FINISHINGTHE EDGES' THEREOF Filed August 29, 1923 Patented May 4, I 1926.

UNITED stares ALFRED J; THOMAS or BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE PPER AND METHOD OFIFINVISHIING THE ,nnens rnnnnor.

iApplicat-ibn filed Au ust 29, less. Serial No. 660,044.

.To all whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, .ALFREDJ. Tr-roaras,

a citizen of the United States of America,

and a resident of Braintree, in the county of Norfolk and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and usefullinprovements in ShoeUppers and Methods of Finishing the Edges Thereof, of which-thefollowing is a specification.

This invention relates to methods of finishing the edges of shoe uppers,the object ofthe invent-ion being the production of, a shoe upper with acorded edge, said'corded edge being substantially the same thickness asthe reinainder'of the upper.-

For the purpose of illustrating the invention one preferred form thereofis shown in the drawings, this form having been found to givesatisfactoryand reliable results, although it is to be understood thatthe various instrumentalities of which the invention consists can bevariously arranged and organized, and that the invention is not limited'to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrunientalities Vas herein shown and described, except as required by the scopeotthefappended'claims.

Of the drawings: 7 Flgure 1 represents a sectional plan of a portionoifa sewing machine having applied thereto an attachment by which theprinci the present invention may be carried ples of out.

Figure represents a side elevation of the same.

Figure 3 represents a side elevation of the Figure 8 represents'avertical section on line 8, 8 on Fig. 7. j

Figures 9 to 12 inclusive represent sectionaldetails of the successivepositions of the tape and cord until secured to the upper. V Figure 13represents a perspective of a portion of an upper with a. skived edge onits inner face.

Figure 14' representsa perspective '01 a" portion of said upper with thefolded tape secured to the edge of its outer "face.

Figure 15'represents a'perspective of a portion of said upper with thefolded tape intu'rned against the skived inner face, and

Figure 16 represents a perspective of a portion of said upper wlthfthefolded tape on its innerskived face and a lining to which said upper andtape is secured by a row of stitches. j

tainiilar characters indicate "like parts throughout the several figuresof the draw-; ings. 'In the drawings, 10 is a: cylindrical ineni her orbarrel, "forming a part of a. Singer scwing'machine, provided with areciproeating needle, 11, a presser toot '12,. and a" feed foot 13, allof usual construction and iorining'no part ot' the' prescnt invention.

'lo the barrel 10 is secured a bracket 1-1, having pivoted thereto fat15 a guideior ned intwo parts 16 and 17,.the' part 17 being adjustablerelatively the part 16.

The bracket 14: has a slottherein through which extend'the clanipingscrews 18. By lOOSBlllllg-thfl screws 18, the bracket li rnay beadjusted horizontally and'tl'ien secured'in adjusted position by turningsaid clamping screws.

" lheguide member 16 has a slot 19therein concentric to the pivot 15,through which extends a clamp screw 20 to retain said mem herlfl-iiorinally in raised position.

By loosening the screw 20, the member 16 may lEG'IUOYGCi downwardlyabout'its pivot- 15,101' the purposev tobe; hereinafter descr'hedQ i 1'iihisfinemhei' 16 has a lateral flange 21 at its outer end and atape-receipingr opening 22 extending therethrough. i

The part 17 or the guide has a tube 23 extending there'through, theprojecting end of which is positioned in the opening22 and isinclined-toward the outer wall thereof.

=The tube 23 is adapted toreceivea cord 24,'which is to beenclosedwithin a-fold25 of a tape 26 having selvage edges. 1

This 1ne1nber17 has its outer end wall 27 so shaped in conformity withthe inner all of'the flangeQl that a curved passage'will be 'formedintowhich the tape 26 is adapted tobefed."

The opposite end of the member 17 is provided with a slot 28 in whichare positioned the headedscrews 29 threaded to the member l6.

By loosening the screws 29, the member 17 may be adjusted relatively tothe member 16 so as to accommodate the passage in the guide '16, 17 todifferent widths of tape 26.

As the tape 26 is fed through the passage in the guide 16, 1?, a narrowportion 30 thereof will be folded over to form the fold 25, and as thecord 24 isbeing fed simultaneously toward this fold 25, it will bepositioned in said fold 25 as the tape 26 moves outwardly. from theopposite end'of said guide passage. I

The bracket 14 has a lateral shelf to which is secured a work support 31consisting of a U-shaped plate, beneathwhich is disposed a plate havingslots 32 in the inner end thereof, through which slots extend the headedscrews 33 for securing the U-shaped plate to the bracket 14.

,The inner end of the plate is provided with a flange 33 by which theplate 32 may be adjusted relatively to. the U-shaped plate 31 when thescrews 33 are loosened.

The outer end of the plate 32 forms, with the inner wall of the U-shapedbend of plate 31, a slot. 34 through which the folded tape 26, withthecord 24 in its fold 25, is fed toward the needle 11, which is adapted tounite the edge of the folded portion to the body portion of the tape 26,with the cord 24 in the fold 25 thereof.

, Simultaneously with the feeding of the tape 26 and cord 24. an upper35 of a shoe is fed toward the needle 11, while resting, inside up, uponthe upper face of the U-shaped member orwork support 31.

Consequently, the same stitches which 7 unite the fold 25 to the bodyportionof the tape 26 .at the same time unite the tape 26 to the edge ofthe upper 35.

The edge of the upper 35 while feeding, bears against a shoulder 36 on agage 37, adjustably mounted on the barrel 10, so that 'the folded tape26 is secured a uniform distance from the edge of the upper. V

This gage 37 has a slot 38 inits opposite end through which the clampingscrews 39 extend into the barrel 10.

When at the beginning of the operation, it is necessary to insert thetape 26 into its passage in guide 16,17, and the cord 24 intothe tube23, the member 16 is moved downwardly about its pivot 15 so that thepassage and tube will be out of alinement with the slot 34 in the worksupport 31, thus facilitating the insertion of thetape 26 and cord 24and permitting the ends thereof to be pulled, through the passagestherefor.

After sufhcient lengths of tape and cord have been pulled through theguide 16, 17, these ends are then inserted into the slot 34 and thesubsequent operation of the sewing machine will then cause the tape 26and cord 24 to be continuously drawn from the sources of supply.

means of this mechanism, the tape 26 may be folded with a cord 24in itsfold 25, and'then at one operation the folded portion may be secured tothe body of the tape 26 and also to the upper 35.,

The upper 35 preferably is skived on its inner face at the edge thereof,as indicated at 41 in Fig. 13. V 7

When the tape 26 with the cord 24 in a fold 25 thereof has been securedto the outer face of theskived edge 41 of the upper 35, only onethickness 42 of the tape 26 will extend beyond the edge of the upper 35as shown in Fig. 14. v

The skived edge 41 and the under face of the thickness42 of the tape 26then have adhesive cement applied thereto,'and said single thickness '42of tape 26 is then inturned against the skived face 41. i

This inturning of the thickness 42 is preferably along the line ofstitches uniting the tape 26 to the upper 35, and when inturned as shownin Fig. 15, a narrow portion of the skived edge 41 is turned in also,extending towardthe inturned single thickness 42 of tape 26.

By making the fold 25 from a very narrow portion of the tape 26 andleaving substantially only a single thickness of tape to be folded overonto the skived face 41, it makes it possible to have the folded portionno thicker than the body portion of the upper.

The lining 43 is then'positioned upon the inner face of the upper and isunited thereto and to the body of the tape 26 and also the edge of thefold 25 by a row of stitches 44. V

The tape 26 which is used has. selvage edges and as the fold 25 is made,one selvage edge is closely adjacent the cord 24, and during thestitching operation, the needle 11 will pass through the fold 25 betweensaid selvage edge and the cord '24, the stitches thus formed extendingthrough portions of the cord at one side thereof, thus preventing thecord from slipping in the fold.

Bi-f stitching the fold 25 to the body por tion of tape 26, in themanner described, whenthe single thickness 42 of tape is inturned ontothe skived face 41 of the upper 35, no part of the fold 25 will beintertween the inturned single thickness of tape posed between saidskived edge #11 and single thickness 42 of tape 26, thus making a foldwhich is of the same thickness as the body of theupper No bulge,therefore, is formed along the edge of the upper which is a greatadvantage as if a bulge is formed, the beauty of'the shoe isgreatlymarred.

This objection is whollyobviated by embodying the method hereindescribed, and a better finished upper is attained than it has beenpossible to obtain heretofore Where a corded tape is secured to the edgeof the upper. 1 .7 it 7 The tape 26 is drawn from a source of supply atthe right of Fig; 2 so that the tape in passing through the guide 16, 17will be drawn against the outer end of the member 1? and cause the edgeof the tape 26 to coinmence its fold from the start through the guide16, 17, the fold. being completed when the tape 26 and cord 24: leavesaid guide 16, 17. a

The slot 3% in the work support is tapered, being larger at the endnearest the guide 16,

I 17,, and as the tape 26 with the cord 24E in its fold 25 passesthrough said, slot 3%, the fold will be forced tightly against said cord2 1 so that when it passes from said slot 3% to the needle 11, theselvage edge of the tape 26 will be closelyadjacent the cord 24 so thatthe stitches will pass through the fold 25 between said selvage edge andthe adjacent side of said cord 24,

hen thin material is used for the upper, the same method may be employedwithout slriving the edge of the upper for, as only a single thicknessof tape is interposed between the upper and vlining, the additionalthickness will be hardly noticed. or

A great saving intiine is made by siinultaneously performing all theseoperations, and a rent advantage is gained lnasmuch as' no adhesive isrequired to retain the-parts in position until after the foldedtape issecured to the upper and this adhesive beand the shived portion of theupper may be entirely omitted if desired.

7 It is believed that the operation and many advantages of the inventionwill be understood readily without further description Having thusdescribed my invention, I claim: I

1. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously fecdin 'a ta 3e a'cord and an u er having a skived faceat one edge, folding a.

portion of said tape over the cord during the feeding operation, andstitching the folded tape to said upper on' its outer face adjacent theskived edge thereof.

2. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, and an upper having a skivedinncrface at one edge, foldinga portion of-said tape. over the cord duringuniting the folded tape to said upper on its outer fage ad acent theedge thereof by a row of stitches passing through said folded tapecontiguous to said cord. I

3. The method of finishing the edgesoi" the feeding operatioin'and atthe sametiine.

shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, andan upper, folding a narrow portion of said tape over upon a widerportion thereof during the feeding said row of stitches,- placing alining upon the inner-face of said upper and'inturned portions of saidtape and upper, and finally and lining by uniting said tape, upper,another row of stitches. 4 I

1. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consistsinsimultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, and an upper.

skived on its inner face at oneedge,ifolding V a narrow portion of saidtape over upon a w der portionthereof during the feeding operation,inserting the cord into the fold of said tape as it is folded, unitingin one operation said folded portion to the body of the tape and to saidupper: by a row of stitches, then turning inwardly a single thickness ofthe tape outside said row of stitches onto said skived face, placing alining upon the inner face of said upper and inturned,pertion of :saidtape, and finally uniting said tape, and lining,'by anotherrowofstitchesy Q H, I 5. The method of finishing the edges of shoeuppers which consists in simultaneously" feeding a tape, a cord andanupper, folding:

a narrow portion ofsaid tape over upon a wider portion thereof duringthe operation, inserting said cord into the fold of said tape as it isfolded, uniting in one operationsaid folded portion to the body of. thetape and i i tosaid upper by a row of stitches, then turn.

ing inwardly the body of the tape and the edge: of the upper outsidesaid row of stitches, placing a lining uponthe inner face ofsaid' upperand inturned portions of said 7 tape andupper, and finally uniting saidtape, and liningyby anotherrow of stitches adjacent to said cord. v i

6. The method of finishing the'edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding an'upper, a tape, and'a cord, and at the sametime folding a narrow portion of said tape over-said cord, uniting thebody of the tape and its narrow folded portion to the outer face of saidupper bya rowof stitches closely adjacent the outer margin' ofsaid'edge, then turning inwardly a single thickness of tape outside saidrow of stitches onto the inner face of the upper, placing a linin onsaid inner face and inwardly folded thickness of tape, and linallyuniting said lining and tape by another row of stitches.

'lhe method of finishing the edges of the shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding an upper, a tape and a cord, and at the same timefolding a narrow portion of said tape over said cord, uniting at oneoperation. the bodyof the tape and its narrow folder portion to theouter face of said upper by a row of stitches closely adjacent the outermargin of said edge, then turning inwardly a single thickness of tapeoutside said row of stitches onto the inner face of the upper, placing alining on said inner face and inwardly turned thickness of tape, andfinally uniting said lining and tape by another row of stitches,positioned between said folded edge of the upper and the cord enclosedwithin said folded tape.

8.7 The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers having their innerfaces skived near one edge which consists in simultanei. 'e i't a3 "(a z(usl fe ding a t e, coi l nd unei, ind

during such feeding operation, first folding a portion of the tape overthe cord, and then uniting the folded edge of said tape to the outerface of said upper closely adjacent the outer niarginof said skive'dedge by a single row of stitches. 1

E). The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding a, tape, cord, and upper, and during such feedingoperation, first folding a portion of the tape over. the cord, and thenuniting the folded edge of saidtape to the outer face of said upperclosely adjacent the outer margin of said edge by a single row ofstitches passing through portions of said cord.

10. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding a tape with selvage edges, a cord, and an upper,and during such feeding oporation, first folding one selvage edge of thetape over the cord, and then uniting the folded edge of said tape to theouter face of sa d upper closely ad acent the outer margin of said edgeby a single row of stitchespassing through the folded portion of saidtape be tween its selrage edge and the center of said cord.

11. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers having a skivedinner face at one edge, feeding said upper towards the needle of asewing machine, simultaneously feeding a tape and a cord, folding aportion shoe uppers having a slri'ved inner face at one edge, feedingsaidupper towards the needle of a sewing machine, simultaneously feedinga tape and a cord, folding a portion of the tape over the cord duringthe feeding operation, stitching "he folded tape to said upper on outerface closely adjacent the outer margin of said edge, turning inwardly asingle thickness of the tape and the edge of the upper outside the rowof stitches onto the skired inner face of said upper, placing a liningupon the inner face of said upper and inturned portions of said tape andupper, and then uniting said tape, upper and lining by another row ofstitches.

13. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding said upper, a tape, and a cord, and at the sametime, inserting the cord in'a fold of said tape, and then uniting saidtape to the edge of said upper by a row of stitches.

14;. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists insimultaneously feeding said upper, a tape, and a cord, and

folding the tape over said cord during the feeding operation, and thenuniting the edges of said tape to the edge of said upper by a row ofstitches.

Signed by me at 746 Old South Bldg, Boston, Mass, this lTth day ofAugust, 1923.

ALFRED J. THOTXULS.

